Article 30048 of rec.games.pinball: Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball,news.answers,rec.answers From: "Keith P. Johnson" Subject: general pinball Frequently Asked Questions -- The rec.games.pinball DynaFAQ v3.1 - 15-Sep-94 Summary: This monthly posting contains a list of frequently asked questions (and answers) about the game of pinball and the newsgroup rec.games.pinball. It should be read by all who wish to post to rec.games.pinball before posting. Lines: 1629 Archive-name: games/pinball/general Last-modified: 1994/09/15 Version: 3.1 Frequency: monthly The rec.games.pinball Dyna-FAQ ============================== Originated by Keith Johnson and Kevin Martin Maintained by: Keith Johnson Version 3.1 - 15-Sep-94 [ObLegalStuff] This guide is Copyright (c) 1994 by Keith P. Johnson. Permission is granted to freely distribute this guide in any manner. You may also make any changes you wish, provided credit to those whose names appear in the DFAQ "Hallowed List of Contributors" as well as this notice are included in the new distribution and the new distribution remains free of charge. Use of this guide in any other manner without my permission is strictly prohibited. What does this mean for you, the consumer? Well, it basically means that you can't go off and write a book and include this DFAQ in it without asking me first. Not that you'd do that anyway... :) Any changes, suggestions, flames, or comments are welcomed. Mail them to the address given above for the maintainer. Any information that is sent to me by email or by posting on rgp or elsewhere becomes my property and fair game for inclusion in the DynaFAQ unless you explicitly state otherwise at the time the information is released. All contributions are of course noted at appropiate places and at the end of the document. Introduction ------------ The purpose of this DFAQ is to provide an up-to-date list of questions and their answers for the rec.games.pinball newsgroup. The current official FAQ for the newsgroup deals primarily with maintaining and finding/buying your own pinball machines. The FAQ is a valuable guide for this kind of information, and if that is the kind of information you really need, read that. Its maintainer is Andy Oakland . This DFAQ tries to reflect the current goings-on and trends of the newsgroup and pinball in general, as well as the interesting past. Finally, and perhaps most important, we hope to provide some factual and interesting reading for anyone who enjoys pinball or wants to learn more about it. This DFAQ is set up so that if you want the answer to a specific question in the Index of Questions, you can use your favorite editor or pager to locate the question quickly by searching for: >>(section #).(question #) So if you want the answer to question 4 in section 0, you'd search for: >>0.4 You can also just search for >> to find the next question in line. If you want to go to a specific section, just search for >># (where # is the section you want) and you'll go to the first question in that section. Neat, huh? :) When referring to files in the pinball archive, just the directory from the base pinball directory and the filename are used. For example, if you FTP to the ftp.rahul.net archive, all references to files will assume you are already in the directory /pub/sigma/pinball. Abbreviations ------------- This is a list of abbreviations commonly used in this DFAQ (as well as the newsgroup in general). "Learn it, know it, live it." :) rgp - rec.games.pinball FAQ - Frequently Asked Question(s) DFAQ - the Dyna-FAQ (this guide!) BTW - by the way K - thousand (usually points) M - million B - billion SDTM - straight down the middle MHO - My Humble Opinion PAPA - Professional and Amateur Pinball Association IFPA - International Flipper Pinball Association AMOA - Amusement & Music Operators Association TZ - Twilight Zone TAF - The Addams Family IJ - Indiana Jones JD - Judge Dredd JP - Jurassic Park LAH - Last Action Hero SF2 - Street Fighter II SMB - Super Mario Bros. ST:TNG - Star Trek: The Next Generation CFTBL - Creature From the Black Lagoon BK - Black Knight BK2K - Black Knight 2000 LW3 - Lethal Weapon 3 HS2 - High Speed II: The Getaway VUK - Vertical Up-Kicker EM - Electro-Mechanical SS - Solid State There is an entire file in the archive dedicated to abbreviations used in rgp. It is called /Misc/abbreviations. Index of Questions ------------------ * = change in answer to question + = new question SECTION 1.............................................................On-Line 1* Did someone say "pinball archive?" 2. I don't have FTP access. Can I get stuff by e-mail? 3. Can I read rgp by mail? 4. Can I post to rgp by mail? 5. Where are the archive mirrors? 6. What are brag posts? 7. What's an ObPinball? 8. Do the manufacturers read rgp? 9. Is there any pinball stuff on the World Wide Web? 10. Wouldn't it be a great idea to keep binaries of pinball games? 11+ How about getting together on IRC? SECTION 2.............................................................General 1. Who are the manufacturers? 2. What is that loud cracking noise? 3. What is a special? 4. What is a match? 5. Do pinball machines have magnets in them? 6. Then what causes weird ball movement? 7. So the electro-magnetic field... 8. What is a beta machine? 9. Did I just see a cow in that game? 10. Are there cows in _____? 11. How much does a machine weigh? 12. How much does a machine cost? 13. What is the size of a pinball? 14. What is the Powerball? 15. What is the Power? 16. Are there any pinball-related or pinball-specific publications? 17. What is the Broadway Arcade? SECTION 3.....................................................Playing Pinball 1. Is there a good source of information for improving my play? 2. How does tilt work, anyway? 3. What is a slam tilt? 4. What is a death save? 5. What is a bang back? 6. What are combos? 7. What are "Wizard Awards?" 8. Is _____ a good score on _____? 9. What is "rolling a game over?" 10. Why is the replay different from the other day? 11. How does the game know when a ball is stuck? 12. What does "Press start to adjust replay" mean? SECTION 4.....................................................Tournament Play 1. What are the major leagues? 2* What are the major tournaments? 3. What are common settings for tournament play? 4. What is a "tournament mode?" 5. How do tournaments work? 6. How can I find out about tournaments? 7. Can I start my own league? 8* Who are the past tournament winners? SECTION 5.............................................................History 1. What was the first pinball game? 2. OK, then, what was the first game with FLIPPERS in it? 3. What are Electro-Mechanical games? 4. What are Solid State games? 5. What was the first Data East game? 6. What was the first Alvin G. & Co. game? 7. Aren't Tri-Ball and M-Ball really stupid names for Multiball? 8. So why do Gottlieb and Alvin G. machines say Multiball? 9. Is there a list of all the pinball games that have been made? 10. What manufacturers have died off over the years? 11. Do manufacturers from other countries exist? 12. Was pinball really banned in New York City? 13. Are replays still illegal in New York City? 14. What are the most popular games ever? SECTION 6................................................Technically Speaking 1. Can the rules change on the same game? 2. So how do I see what ROMs are on my machine? 3. What kind of sensors are used in games? 4. What happens when the switches break? 5. What are those wiry paths called? 6. How can the game get harder physically? 7. How can the game get harder otherwise? 8. How do flippers work? 9. Can I tell if anything is wrong with the game BEFORE I play it? SECTION 7..................................................Specific Game FAQs 1. What is the 4-way combo in TAF? 2. Why is/isn't there a rubber band in my TZ? 3. What are the songs used in CFTBL? 4. What is the Vacation Jackpot in Whitewater? 5. I just got the flipper bonus in TZ. How did I do it? 6. What is the proper way to go in STTNG's Shuttle Simulation? 7. What is the Secret Mission in STTNG? 8. Why in God's name are there 3 High Score tables in STTNG? 9* Are there really secret flipper combinations in games? SECTION 8.......................................................Video Pinball 1. Video pinball??? 2. How accepted is video pinball? 3. So what's available? SECTION 9.............................................Pinball and Your Health 1. Can I really get injured just by playing pinball? 2. How can I avoid pinball-related injuries? 3. So how do I know if I'm getting CTS? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** Section 1 - On-Line ** ------------------------- >>1.1 - Did someone say "pinball archive?" Sure enough. We have our own dedicated rgp pinball archive. It is located at: Host: ftp.rahul.net IP address: 192.160.13.5 Directory: /pub/sigma/pinball Maintainer: Kevin Martin It would be nice for everyone if you would check here first to see if what you need is here before posting "Does anyone have rules for _____" messages to the Net. If what you want isn't here, then make a request and more than likely someone will be able to provide you with something. And in the process, it makes the archive even bigger, which makes Kevin happy for a couple of days. :) Simply FTP to this site, login as anonymous and send your e-mail address as your password, same as any other anon-FTP site. If you're unfamiliar with FTP, basically what you would type is this: % ftp ftp.rahul.net username: anonymous password: (type your email address) [some welcome messages appear here] ftp>cd /pub/sigma/pinball When here, you should grab the README file which describes the archive and its mirrors and provides some helpful information for getting files from the archive. Also, the Listing file provides a description of every single file currently in the archive. Also, you can get the Latest file if you've been here before to get the list of recent changes/additions to the archive. Both of these are in the pinball archive root directory. From there, there are a lot of other directories such as Rules (which contains all the rules sheets written so far). Visit it, it's worth it! -- Thanks to Dave Stewart for suggestions. >>1.2 - I don't have FTP access. Can I get stuff by e-mail? Yes, you can. You can use the FTPmail server provided by DEC. It is not the place of the DFAQ to explain how to do it, but I will explain how to get help from them. Mail the following message: To: ftpmail@decwrl.dec.com Subject: help reply keefer@rahul.net [of course, you'd put YOUR address here] help quit That's it! You should get a response within a couple minutes. When you get around to requesting stuff by ftpmail, though, it'll take considerably longer (at least overnight). Maybe someone will get around to writing a guide on getting stuff from the pinball archive via ftpmail. As of November 1993, there is a pinball archive mailserver. You can access it by mailing the following message: To: parchive@vt.edu Subject: help Nothing else in your message matters with a subject of "help." Using the mailserver would be a better idea because it deals ONLY with the pinball archive and thus you wouldn't be clogging up FTPmail. Plus, it's just a hell of a lot faster. :) >>1.3 - Can I read rgp by mail? A kind soul (Bill Ung, see address below) has offered to mail off the day's articles to anyone who wants them. Basically what you'll get is a compressed, uuencoded file of every article posted that day. You can then save the mail message, uudecode it, decompress it, then do with it whatever you want. Keep in mind, though, that the number of messages per day probably averages around 20-30, and during peak periods has hit 60-70 per day. That's a lot of disk space! -- Thanks to Bill Ung ! >>1.4 - Can I post to rgp by mail? Yep. Use the University of Texas mail-to-news gateway. Post the subject of your article as the subject of your letter and mail the article to . Bill Ung does this all the time, so we know it works. :) There are other gateways as well, but they are doubtlessly covered in some news.answers list. >>1.5 - Where are the archive mirrors (or, what to do if rahul.net is down)? genesis.mcs.com <192.160.127.65>: /mcsnet.users/sigma/pinball ftp.eu.net <192.16.202.2>: /games/pinball ns.nl.net <193.78.240.1>: /pub/games/pinball ftp.funet.fi <128.214.6.100>: /pub/doc/games/pinball Generally speaking, the mirrors will not lag behind the original archive by more than a day. If you have net access from Europe (or Asia, I guess :) ), then more than likely the European mirrors will be a lot faster for you. >>1.6 - What are brag posts? Just someone telling how well they've done on a game or something they've accomplished. Depending on who you ask, they're generally not discouraged. They are never flamed, though. Often interesting reading. >>1.7 - What's an ObPinball? An ObPinball (or ObPinRef or anything similar) stands for Obligatory Pinball. Every post made to rgp should have *something* to do with pinball or close to it. When something has strayed way off subject, someone will generally include some kind of ObPinball. Otherwise we start getting a lot of "What does THIS have to do with pinball??" posts... >>1.8 - Do the manufacturers read rgp? You bet they do! Some people who work for them even post on occasion. Most of them that do post will do so from chinet.chinet.com or mcs.com. There are a few other places, too, but those are the main ones. Don't let this deter you from posting a truly objective, honest opinion, though! Both us and them will benefit more if people can constructively criticize a game and they can get the problems fixed in future games. Don't expect to hear from them publically too often, though. And almost never about a current game or upcoming ones. If you do recognize one, try to act nicely towards them... We don't want to scare them off. :) Ed Boon (who as you may or may not know is the main programmer of Mortal Kombat and the voice of Rudy the dummy in FunHouse) posted to rec.games.video.arcade Spring 1993 and was accused of everything from being a phony to being a jerk for not giving out secrets about the game, etc. etc. Little did they know... Anyway, Ed does not post to rgva anymore (can you blame him??). I'd say they lost out on a potentially very valuable source of information. We just don't want to see the same thing happen to rgp, that's all. >>1.9 - Is there any pinball stuff on the World Wide Web? There is now, thanks to David Byers . It is located at: http://www.lysator.liu.se:7500/pinball/ (or) http://130.236.254.151:7500/pinball/ In honor of the Williams cow, it is called the Pinball Pasture. To access it, you'll need a WWW client. The main ones are Mosaic (for X) and Lynx (for regular terminals). Of course, it's much cooler with Mosaic, because with Lynx you can't see the pictures or animations (yes, there are animations there too...). Once there, you can search through all of the text files in the Archive, look through a comprehensive list of machines since the 70s, and view some pinball-related images. >>1.10 - Wouldn't it be a great idea to keep binaries of pinball games? Yep. Unfortunately, we can't. The reason is, quite simply, our old friend the Copyright. The manufacturers' lawyers won't allow any storage for public access of anything having to do with their games. This includes scans of playfields and the promotional flyers they give out to advertise their games! So why is this the case? Basically, we have too many lawyers in the USA. Seriously, the reason that has been regurgitated by the manufacturers is that they don't want any distribution of their copyrighted material that isn't under their control. So why don't they start something that IS under their control? Good question. This has been brought up a number of times, so you really shouldn't consider bringing it up again. We are serious. There ARE some available pinball- related binaries stored in ftp.rahul.net in my directory, /pub/keefer/pinball. If you ask nicely, I may store YOUR pinball-related binary file(s) for a fairly random amount of time provided it's not very big (over 500K would *really* be pushing it). Do *NOT* ever post binaries to rgp. It's a bad, *bad*, BAD, *BAD* idea. The main reason is because it is not a binaries group and many people who get their newsfeeds via modems, UUCP, and all that other good stuff rely on this fact so that they don't get bogged down with a sudden 750K of stuff on a group that rarely gets over 40K a day. If you really *must* post something because not even I will keep it for public FTP for awhile, post it to alt.binaries.misc or something like that and post a pointer of it in rgp. >>1.11 - How about getting together on IRC? We already thought it was a good idea, so we do now. :) The "official" scheduled times are Sunday and Wednesday nights at 9PM Eastern [Daylight/ Standard] Time. That roughly translates to around 2AM in England like 5AM in Sweden. Check a table or something to be sure, though. If you don't know what IRC is, or don't know how to access it, then check out the alt.irc FAQ. If you don't get alt.irc, then hopefully they also have gotten it on rtfm.mit.edu by now (the news.answers holding-place). Also, if that fails, try alt.answers and news.answers. ** Section 2 - General ** ------------------------- >>2.1 - Who are the pinball manufacturers? Currently, there are Williams (who owns Bally/Midway and also uses this name to manufacture pins, effectively giving the same company 2 pins on the assembly line at once), Gottlieb (owned by Premier), and Data East. If for some reason you'd like to contact one of these companies, their addresses are given in the FAQ. >>2.2 - What is that loud cracking noise? That is the sound of a solenoid banging the side of the pinball cabinet. Well, not always the side of the cabinet, but usually. Some newer Williams/ Bally games have the thwacker (technical term) in the backbox. Weird. In most cases, it signals the award of a free game, a chance to play the machine again at no cost! Along with being a real-life physical entity that you can manipulate, free games are what sets pinball machines apart from video games. >>2.3 - What is a special? Usually a special is a free game. However, the reason that it's called a special is because it doesn't HAVE to be a free game. It could also be an extra ball or some number of points. >>2.4 - What is a match? At the end of your game (unless your operator has disabled it), you will be given a chance to randomly win a free game. If the selected digits match the last 2 digits of your score, you get it. Note, though, that on modern games, you do not have a 1:10 chance of getting a game. The percentage of matches awarded is operator settable, and often defaults to 7%. Supposedly Gottlieb machines default to a paltry 1%! And Data East uses a newbie-catcher trick: When the game matches, it plays some sounds, some animations, and gives you the credit after about 3-5 seconds. If you hit start before then (because you still have credits left), you won't get your match credit! Back when scores didn't have dummy 0's (or 2 or 3 or 6... :) ), matches were only on the last digit of your score... >>2.5 - Do pinball machines have magnets in them? NO! Well, usually not. Some games have visible, purposeful magnets in them, but they are usually pointed out to you somehow. Some examples are the spiral magnets in TZ, the power in TAF (LAH also uses the same technique as TAF), and the "Don't shoot!" ball-trapping magnet in Rollergames. In TZ, there is also the Magna-Flip in the Powerfield, where you activate the magnets in an attempt to sling the ball up to the top. And, in some games of the past (most notably BK and BK2K), there was Magna-Save. Hit the button, and your ball would be caught from the outlane, and generally fall back into the inlane (assuming you were fast enough, of course...). >>2.6 - Then what causes weird ball movement? Strange things happen because the ball will develop spin. When the ball bounces off of something, several things can happen. If the ball hits metal, it'll have a tendency to have its velocity absorbed for the most part and the spin will carry it in a new direction. This is most often observed with metal outlane posts. If the ball hits rubber, then it'll generally bounce off it, but not at the angle you might expect. Another cause of weird movement is when the playfield covering (mylar, or the new Williams Diamond-Plate (tm)) starts to bubble up from underneath. This can rise high enough to cause a miniture hill of sorts for the ball to roll over. Not only that, but under-playfield gizmos that have something on top of them to protect them from the regular playfield (like that hologram in CFTBL) sometimes sink down a little bit further than the playfield level, and balls can get caught on the lip or have their velocity otherwise altered. -- Thanks to Dave Stewart for suggestions. >>2.7 - So the electro-magnetic field from underneath the playfield that is generated by the lights and all the wiring doesn't affect the movement of the ball in any way? No. >>2.8 - What is a beta machine? Beta machines are pins that show up a while before their production run. Most often, they appear in areas around Chicago (since that's where all the manufacturers are located) so that people can try them out and give their initial impressions and feelings about the game. Betas generally are quite a bit different from their later production counterparts in the way the rules are set up. However, the artwork and playfield layout almost never changes, though other things like rubber posts may be added and/or removed. There are also even earlier prototype machines that may wind up being radically different from the later betas and production machines. ** See also question 6.2 for information on prototype ROMs. >>2.9 - Did I just see a cow in that game? Yep. Lots of recent Bally/Williams games have cows in them. The reason is unbeknownst to the pinball public, though. Data East caught on to this, and a cow is featured in one of their games (LW3). It pops up during video mode and is considered an enemy. :) Shoot it, quick! >>2.10 - Are there cows in _____? If you really want to know, there is a guide to cows in pinball machines in the archive. It is called Misc/cows. >>2.11 - How much does a machine weigh? Around 250-350 pounds, depending on the number of toys in it, whether it's a widebody or not, etc. >>2.12 - How much does a machine cost? New machines fresh from the factory retail for $3000-$3500. Data East and Gottlieb machines tend to be on the less expensive end of the scale; Williams/Bally tend to be more expensive. >>2.13 - What is the size of a pinball? 1 1/16" diameter, weight 80 grams for a regular steel ball. 1 1/16" diameter, weight 65 grams for the Powerball. Apparently, a pure ceramic Powerball would only weigh 40 grams. Therefore, there must be something else inside it (like a steel middle). What we need is to have someone cut open their Powerball to tell us for sure how it is made. :) By comparison, if the Powerball was phenolic (the stuff used to make pool balls), it would weigh 13.6 grams or maybe 17.7 with a steel middle. -- Thanks to Brent Earl for the answer to this question. >>2.14 - What is the Powerball? The Powerball is found in TZ. It is ceramic, and thus immune to the magnets. It is also lighter and moves much faster around the playfield. It seems to be just slightly larger than a normal pinball, supposedly verified by a caliper by someone. (Anyone know who or for sure?) It's awfully close to 1 1/16", though. >>2.15 - What is the Power? The Power is a somewhat recurring theme found in Williams' games. It has been featured as early as Big Guns, with "Feel the power" written on the promo flyer. Pat Lawlor's games have used it the most, as a rule. First, in Whirlwind, where you "Feel the power of the wind." Then it shows up in TAF (a trio of cycling magnets that can throw the ball off into weird places). Finally, TZ features the mini-playfield to defeat the power. It doesn't seem to have any kind of deep inner-meaning significance.. >>2.16 - Are there any pinball-related or pinball-specific publications? Yes. There is a list of books and magazines (some dedicated to pinball, others to the entertainment industry in general) in the FAQ, along with addresses to contact the publishers. >>2.17 - What is the Broadway Arcade? Quite possibly one of the finest arcades in the US for playing pinball. It is located at 52nd & Broadway in New York City. Its owner is Steve Epstein, who has been an incredible force in advancing the world of pinball. He is the founder of PAPA and is responsible for numerous tournaments held nowadays. Truly a great man dedicated to a great cause! :) -- Thanks to Steve Baumgarten for corrections. ** Section 3 - Playing Pinball ** --------------------------------- >>3.1 - Is there a good source of information for improving my play? In the archive, there is a file called Info/playingtips. It is maintained by Dave Hollinsworth . It is an invaluable guide to getting better and explaining techniques. If you are at all serious about improving your skill, you should not be without this guide. There is a LOT of information in it, but some questions are asked so often, I felt they also deserved a spot in the DFAQ... >>3.2 - How does tilt work, anyway? The main tilt sensor that you are probably familiar with (the one that gives you warnings and ends your ball if you move the game too much to the side or back and forth) is a ring on the side of the cabinet. In the middle of the ring is a rod that hangs above. Attached to the bottom of the rod is a weight (which can be adjusted in height). The end result is a pendulum that swings about as the machine gets moved. When the bob (or the rod if the bob is missing for some reason) touches the ring, you set off the tilt sensor for a warning or a tilt. Most games give you 2 warnings before actually tilting (which basically means you lose your ball - the flippers go dead, nothing else registers a hit, and you lose any bonus you had). Data East games only default to 1 warning at the moment. There are other tilt switches, too. One is a ball on a shallow rail to detect if the game is being picked up at the front end or not. This may or may not immediately tilt your ball, or worse slam tilt your game. *** ROUGH ASCII DRAWING ALERT! *** | | | | | <-------- metal rod | | | - / \ | | / \ ---+-----+--- <- ring / \ | | <---- pendulum bob / \ --------- | | "Side view of a tilt mechanism" The lower the bob is on the rod, the less sensitive the game is. The higher up, the more sensitive, since the edge of the bob will getting closer and closer to the ring (due to the slope of the bob). >>3.3 - What is a slam tilt? A slam tilt is used to discourage heavy abuse of a game. If a machine slam tilts for whatever reason, your game (and any other players' games) is OVER. Bam. No questions asked. The two most typical places for a slam tilt switch are on the coin door and on the bottom of the machine. There's one on the coin door to prevent "slamming" credits on the machine. The one on the bottom is to try and detect a drop. And some machines (though recent ones don't seem to have these) have a sensor just under the lockdown bar to detect slamming the top of the glass near the front of the machine. These are simply leaf switches that signal a slam to the game when they come into contact (though older Gottliebs had slam switches that were normally CLOSED - this must have been weird). Sometimes your coin door may be a bit loose for some reason. When this is true, it will make the game a lot easier to slam tilt because of the extra pressure provided by your fist moving forward and the door moving then stopping and having no where else to go. A great way of reducing accidental slams (I've brought my knee up into a loose coin door just by using body- english before and the game slammed, even though I just grazed it) is to take a penny (or other coin or semi-thick metal object) and wedge it into the gap between the coin door and the frame outside it. This will effectively keep the coin door from moving at all because of the pressure the penny provides against it. >>3.4 - What is a death save? A death save is a way to get the ball back into play after it has gone down an outlane. For it to work, you need to have a machine that is not very sensitive tilt-wise. These are easiest on any Data East machine, followed closely by Williams/Bally and Alvin G. machines. They are very hard to do on Gottlieb machines. You can do a death save if the ball has gone down the right outlane (or down the left on a Gottlieb, since they have that rubber pin there to bounce the ball off of). When it has gone down the outlane, hold up the LEFT flipper. Then, as soon as the ball hits the metal plate on the left side, give the machine a sharp quick shove to the right (and perhaps back a little bit). For a Gottlieb machine, you should reverse the process, since you'll be trying to save a left drain off the post. Right outlane saves are very hard. When you try these, please make sure there's enough room for the machine to move around, or else you'll wind up damaging the machine, machines around it, walls, etc. The operator will be less than pleased at you if any of this should happen. However, if you do it right, the ball should now be just above the right flipper. Lower the left and flip away! Warning: Be sure you have your weight sufficiently behind you when you try this! Otherwise, you could wind up hurting your elbow or arm. In the archive, you should check out the Misc/deathsave.gif picture (or the compressed PostScript counterpart, Misc/deathsave.ps.Z). It gives you the general idea of how a death save is supposed to work. I think there's a bang back picture in that file, too. Also see the file referenced in the next question. >>3.5 - What is a bang back? Bang backs are extremely useful for getting the ball back from EITHER outlane when you have a very sensitive machine. They work best on all but the most recent Williams/Bally games (like IJ and JD). They work on Data East machines as well, but they're somewhat harder to do. I've never gotten a bang back on a Gottlieb machine for some reason. Basically, hold up the flipper on the side that the ball is draining. Then, when the ball is under the "swiveling part" of the flipper, hit the front of the machine at the lockdown bar or a little below HARD and in the direction you want the ball to go (i.e. up-left). The ball should pop right off the drain plate and back onto the playfield. These 2 terms (bang backs and death saves) get mixed up all the time for some reason. A good way to remember is that bang backs involve BANGing the machine. In the archive, Dave Stewart has written an entire guide to saving outlane drains. It provides an excellent description of how to do a bang back. Not only that, but death saves are described in there too. What more could you ask for? The file is Info/bangbacks. It is the main reason why I'm not describing how to do them in extreme detail in the DFAQ. >>3.6 - What are combos? Combos are usually defined as a sequence of shots made in rapid succession without missing. More often than not, they involve use of a different flipper for each shot. The first game to my knowledge that had a "hidden combo award" in it was Whirlwind. It also had the coolest sound effect for getting it. Since then, many games have had combo awards in them, and some have even made the combo an integral part of the game (e.g. Dr. Who's W-H-O shots and Dr. Dude's Reflex 1-2-3 shots). A couple of the most recent even have the combos laid out for you (Bally's Black Rose and Gottlieb's Gladiators). >>3.7 - What are "Wizard Awards?" This is the general term given to an objective in a game that is pretty difficult to reach and can be worth a lot of points once you finally get it. In mode-based games, the Wizard Award tends to be something that happens once you have completed all of the modes. In other non-mode-intensive games (like Whitewater) the Wizard Award is completing several objectives, each of which can be a difficult task. Some games may have a couple of Wizard Awards. JP, for example, has the complete-all-modes System Failure as well as the multiball super jackpots. Another recent example is the Lost In the Zone mode in TZ. >>3.8 - Is _____ a good score on _____? This is, in general, a pretty difficult question to answer. Games vary widely in terms of setup (both physically and in the software settings - more on this in the Technical Section), how much tilt they have, the condition they're in (e.g. clean and fast or dirty and slow). A fairly crude estimation of a good game is whether or not you got a replay. Usually, a replay means you've had one of the best 10% games recently. Now, maybe everyone else who plays there is a terrible player, but like I said, it's crude. If you get a high score, then you've done extremely well. Of course, you could always post and ask, and someone will probably tell you they've gotten 5x your score at one point. :) >>3.9 - What is "rolling a game over?" Quite simply, this is what happens when your score becomes more digits than the machine can handle. On todays machines, this commonly happens at 10B points. However, ST:TNG can supposedly handle 10B scores, so rolling over the game will become quite a bit more difficult (probably). >>3.10 - Why is the replay score different from the other day? All modern games use reflexing to adjust the replay value of a game every so often to a desired target percentage of replays. Generally, this is set to about 10%. This means that the game looks at the last x number of games played, determines the percentage of those games that replays were awarded, then makes the new replay value higher or lower depending on what the actual percentage of games won is compared to the desired percentage. Williams/Bally and Gottlieb games reset their replay scores every 50 or so games. Data East games ask you to hit start after power-cycling the machine in order to adjust the replay (or they do it right away if you are using the menus). Lots of recent Gottlieb games have a bug in them that sets the replay well out of reach for pretty much anyone. No one knows why for sure, but there are quite a few machines (SF2s and SMBs, especially) that have replays in the 9 BILLIONS! Ouch. Different from the base replay score is the replay boost: Most games will start raising the current replay score until you run out of credits (so that it isn't easy to constantly keep getting replays at a set score). Williams games nowadays typically raise the replay by 50M points until you run out of credits or someone else puts more money into the game. Either of those actions will put the replay score back to its base (usually). Data East games boost their replays by about 25M after a replay *OR* a match! Running out of credits or putting more money in should reset the replay back to normal here, too. For Gottlieb games, you can get a few replays in a row at the base score, but after that, the score starts to skyrocket. And the boost gets higher and higher after each game played until there are no credits left. Also note that the replay score isn't the only thing that can reflex on a game. Number of ramp shots needed to light extra ball is a good example of other reflexing features. Beware of Data East "reflexing," though! Their games have a tendency to reflex either on or off, not just harder or easier! (This is a Bad Thing, of course.) -- Thanks to Dave Stewart for suggestions. >>3.11 - How does the game know when a ball is stuck? Well, the true answer is that it doesn't know, really... at least not at first. When the game has been idle for a little while during play (no sensors have been tripped, and you're not holding a flipper up), it goes into "ball search mode." This basically involves kicking every solenoid in the game in an effort to lodge the ball free from wherever it might be. Usually this is sufficient because a ball will be resting against a fairly unsensitive jet bumper or perhaps accidently trapped by a diverter (seems to happen in IJ a lot, at least to me, on the right ramp during or just after multiball). However, sometimes airballs (or "glassies") will cause the ball to land in a place that it shouldn't have been able to get to. :) In a lot of these cases, no amount of solenoid kicking is likely to get the ball free. Now, at this point you have a few options: Try to shake the ball lose, risking a tilt; wait for a few ball searches, and the machine will either kick out any locked balls (if there are any) or (very rarely) give you a new ball at the plunger; turn the machine off or slam tilt it to make the machine give up on the ball for good. Option 1 will at least let you continue your game if you get the ball unstuck. Option 2 will let you continue your game, but often relocking a ball that got kicked out from a lock will just make the game sit there again until it kicks the locked ball out again. Draining the newly given ball will usually mean you have to resort to 1 or 3. Option 3 should be a last resort, obviously. When the machine comes back on, hitting start will give you a "pinball missing" message for 30-60 seconds, then let you start a game with the ball missing. This means that multiballs will have 1 less ball if applicable. If there are 3 balls installed, and there's a 2 ball multiball, you'll still get 2 balls. But with 3 installed and a 3 ball multiball, then you'll only have 2 and it'll end when 1 of them drains. If there are 6 balls, then 3 ball multiballs will work OK, but obviously only 5 will be available during the 6 ball round. The (rather alarming) trend in games these days is that if a ball should somehow get unstuck during a game after the machine has flagged it as missing, draining one of the (now two) balls will usually end your ball no matter how many targets you hit after it starts counting your bonus. Hopefully, the other ball will drain while your bonus is counting and the game will realize that it now has all the balls again. If it doesn't, though, and the ball winds up in the drain while the other one is at the plunger, you may wind up with 2 balls in the plunger lane! This is bad, because the game will still end your ball after one of them drains. The trick here is to just get one into play. This is impossible, though, if the game has an autoplunger. You're in real trouble if this is the case... ** Section 4 - Tournament Play ** --------------------------------- >>4.1 - What are the major pinball leagues? Currently, there is 1 national pinball league - PAPA (Professional and Amateur Pinball Association). In July, 1994, the IFPA (International Flipper Pinball Association) ceased operation. IFPA used to be supported by the manufacturers themselves (at a supposed US$20,000/year/manufacturer), but they pulled out, effectively killing the IFPA. This has not been much of a surprise, really. More than likely, the reason is the manufacturers just didn't see any results in the popularity of pinball as a result of the operations of the IFPA... >>4.2 - What are the major tournaments? There are 2 very major tournaments during the course of the year. The first one is the PAPA tournament, held in New York City early to mid February. The next one is the IFPA tournament, held generally around the Chicago vicinity (or fairly close). It is usually held late April or May. The other 2 tournaments are the Pinball Show in Arizona (held mid to late summer) and the tournament at Pinball Expo (held in Chicago in early September). The PAPA tournament usually has 6 divisions: Open A, B, & C, doubles, womens, and juniors (under 16). They only pay out the top 4 in each division, but the money is pretty good, at least as far as tournaments go. The purse in Feb. 1993 was $15K and is said to be $20K for 1994. The winner of A division in 1994 (who was Bowen Kerins) won $4000. The IFPA tournament has divisions for open and masters in both singles and doubles, as well as a womens, juniors, and mixed doubles (a total of 7 divisions). The major problem with IFPA, though, is that they try to pay a LOT of people (top 16 open singles(!), top 8 masters, top 4 masters teams, top 8 (I think) open teams, etc.). This means, obviously, that the prize money tends to be pretty low. Dan Wilson won the 1994 IFPA tournament and about $800 (maybe). Whee. The other 2 tournaments give away games, I believe, for winning them. Presumably, now that the IFPA is defunct, there'll not be an IFPA tournament this year... >>4.3 - What are common settings for tournament play? This depends on the tournament. All of them will set the tournament mode option on (if the game has one). Since the tournament only lasts for a weekend and there are a LOT of matches that have to be played, games are usually set so that the average game time is pretty low. Extra balls are off, specials score points, and there are no replays or other credits. The IFPA machines are left at their default rules and rubber post settings (see technical section for more information), but PAPA and Expo (and probably the Arizona show, but I don't know for sure) are set for hard rules and *very* hard outlanes. >>4.4 - What is a "tournament mode?" The purpose of tournament modes is to take the "randomness" of a game as much as possible. What this mainly means is that any random awards given out by a game will be made non-random. Examples: The Fish Finder on Fish Tales and the Burn Rubber award on HS2 give out the same awards in the same order each time. >>4.5 - How do the tournaments work? Well, this depends on the tournament, too. Here is a brief overview of the major tournaments: IFPA (at least, how it used to work) ---- The IFPA tournament features the game currently on the production line or very close to it for each manufacturer that is a member of the IFPA (this is all 3 (4 if you separate Williams/Bally, which are really the same) of the major manufacturers at the moment). The tournament is a double-elimination tournament, each match being the best 2 out of 3 games, each one played on a different machine. If you get to next day's competition, you start all over again (i.e. you have to lose twice again to be eliminated). All the machines (typically, 100 of them - 25 of each) are always available for play, but for a price. You also have to pay for each game that you play for actual competition. In its effort to pay out to as many people as possible, the IFPA has succeeded in making its prize money pretty much a joke. The winner of the highest division this year made slightly over $800. Yay. Generally speaking, though, most people aren't in it for the money (probably, quite frankly, because it just isn't there - you can't make a living playing pinball). The IFPA has come under question after each of the last 2 tournaments they've put on. It seems that the prize money given out doesn't seem to quite equate to the amount gained for entry fees and coin drops (since you always have to pay to play). This amount has generally been fairly substantial. For IFPA 3, the total purse advertised was $20,000, when the actual payouts were closer to $10,000. For IFPA 4, the advertised amount was $25,000, with the payouts being closer to $15,000... PAPA ---- This is by far the premiere tournament for pinball players. It is generally held in New York City (at least, the first 4 were). The PAPA tournament features the qualifying round and the finals round. To qualify, you need to have one of the 20 or so top scores in the division. Your total is the sum of all scores on (usually) 8 machines. These tend to be the 2 machines in production from each manufacturer right before the current machine (which is used for finals/doubles), though it also has a great deal to do with the availability of certain games. In the quarters, there are about 5 4-player games played. Each person scores points on each game based on where he/she finished (10 for 1st, then 5, 1, 0). There are a certain number of people that move on to the next round based on the number of "PAPA Points" they have. In the case of a tie, total score is used to break it. Then around 12 people move to the semis, then 4 to the finals using the same format. Prize money is very good here, but then they only pay out the first 4 places in each division. The divisions are: A, B, C, Women's, Doubles, and Juniors. Other ----- At the Arizona show, there is a qualifying round, then the top scorers compete on one machine (a surprise until finals, could be *anything*, including old EMs!), top score wins. What do they win, you ask? A new pinball machine (current). At Expo, there is a qualifying round, then later rounds on different machines for each round. The qualifying machine tends to be the latest machine from the manufacturer giving the factory tour that year. Winner here also gets a new machine. >>4.6 - How can I find out about tournaments? Obviously, the best way is to read rgp! :) Other than that, most of them do some advertising in the trade magazines and pinball magazines that are listed in the regular FAQ. After these two choices, though, you're on your own! Perhaps your local friendly operator would let you skim through their magazine to check (any half-decent operator will subscribe to something like Replay, even a lot of the ones that AREN'T half-decent :) ). >>4.7 - Can I start my own league? Sure, why not? If you want it to be sanctioned by PAPA, then you'll need to contact Steve Epstein. If you just want to start small, and perhaps become sanctioned later, then you can run it pretty much any way you want. A good source of information are the Misc/league* files provided by Dave Stewart . It's a really good idea to have the help and approval of a local operator when trying to start one up, if not essential. >>4.8 - Who are the past tournament winners? As of April, 1994... 1991 - PAPA 1 - Joey Cartegena IFPA 1 - Rick Stetta 1992 - PAPA 2 - Rick Stetta IFPA 2 - Dave Hegge 1993 - PAPA 3 - Lyman Sheats, Jr. IFPA 3 - Rick Stetta 1994 - PAPA 4 - Bowen Kerins IFPA 4 - Dan Wilson ** Section 5 - History ** ------------------------- >>5.1 - What was the first pinball game? This depends on what exactly you're asking. Before pinball as we know it today, there were machines that just had pins in them and balls would fall down from the top (like a Pachinko machine, except they weren't upright). This is probably why it was called pin-ball. This coin operated pinball industry as we know it today came into being around 1931. The term "pinball" wasn't coined until 1936. -- Thanks to Terry Cumming for information. >>5.2 - OK, then, what was the first game with FLIPPERS in it? That would be Humpty Dumpty by Gottlieb. The flippers still weren't as we know it today, though. They were really small mini-flippers, and there were six of them. Not only that, they were in the middle at different levels and faced outward, like this: /\ It wasn't until much later that the flippers migrated down to where they are now. The first game to feature flippers at the bottom of the layout was Triple Action (Genco, January 1948, which was designed by Williams' Steve Kordek). However, the flippers were facing outward here, also. The first game with "normal" flippers was probably Spot Bowler (Gottlieb, 1950). The really small flippers used on these games (about the size of the "Thing" flipper on TAF) were used almost exclusively on games until around 1970. -- Thanks to Terry Cumming for information. >>5.3 - What are Electro-Mechanical games? EMs, as they are affectionately called, are basically games that have lots of wires, bells, whistles, and (perhaps their most distinctive feature) scoring reels. I would say the name refers to their basic nature of electricity signalling certain gears to move and change your score or ring bells. >>5.4 - What are Solid State games? Basically, anything that came out after EMs died out. The first solid state game came out around 1978. The most obvious changes in these new machines were the use of 7-segment displays for score, and more electronical-sounding noises (computer-generated beeps and boops). >>5.5 - What was the first Data East game? Data East Pinball released their first pin in 1987, called Laser War. They have since become a fairly major force in the industry. >>5.6 - What was the first Alvin G. & Co. game? I believe their first machine was Head-To-Head Soccer, which was released in 1991. This was basically a regular-sized pinball machine with flipper buttons on both ends and a playfield that was crowned in the middle towards either end. If you don't play against a friend, then the game will itself provide somewhat of an opponent using its patented Switch Flippers. Basically, each flipper has a switch on it that detects when the ball hits it, then it flips. It has been seen doing slap saves! Their first "real" pin was World Tour, released in late 1992. (Its full name is "Al's Garage Band Goes On a World Tour" I think.) The big "feature" of this game was a spinning disk as a ramp. Not a very big deal, really. Another "feature" of the game was the fact that every time the ball hit a jet bumper, you'd feel it in the flipper buttons! This was a pretty strange sensation, to say the least. >>5.7 - Aren't Tri-Ball and M-Ball really stupid names for Multiball? Multiball is a registered trademark (R) of Williams. As such, they are the ones with the rights to use it and can forbid other people to use it. They actually sued Data East for using it (because they were starting to provide some decent competition, and wanted to thwart them in any way they could), and so Data East started using the infamous Tri-Ball in the middle of the production run for LW3. That's why some LW3s say Multiball and some say Tri-Ball. Everything since has been Tri-Ball or something other than Multiball. Late breaking news: Starting with Tales From the Crypt, Data East can now use Multiball to their heart's content. >>5.8 - So why do Gottlieb and Alvin G. machines say Multiball? Because Williams has chosen "selective enforcement" for Multiball. Since these two companies aren't perceived as much of a threat, Williams hasn't bothered with them. >>5.9 - Is there a list of all the pinball games that have been made? Well, most of the solid state games that have been produced are in a list in the archive. It is called Lists/pinball. It is maintained by Rob Rosenhouse . There is also a more comprehensive list covering games in a bit more detail from 1947 on up. You can get information on the guide itself or order it from: Daina Pettit, 4805 Marabow Circle, Salt Lake City, UT 84117. Phone number is (801)277-6296. Contains nearly all you'd want to know about 1,600 games. I haven't seen it myself, this is what Daina has told me. >>5.10 - What manufacturers have died off over the years? There was Chicago Coin (which later became Stern) which put out a good number of pins, Game Plan, Zaccaria (an Italian manufacturer), Atari (who also put out the biggest pin, called Hercules, with the pinball being roughly the size of a cue ball!), and supposedly even Sega had a brief pinball stint. On March 5, 1994, Alvin G. and Co., which had been in business for probably a little less than 2 or 3 years, closed its doors as well. A few companies also produced 1 or 2 games that I haven't bothered to list here. If you really want to know, check out the list mentioned in 5.9. Capcom (of the Street Fighter II video game series fame) is supposedly starting up a pinball division. Nothing from them yet, though. -- Thanks to Lyman Sheats, Jr. for information. >>5.11 - Do manufacturers from other countries exist? Well, after Zaccaria from Italy died out, no. At least, not that I'm aware of. >>5.12 - Was pinball really banned in New York City? Yes, for quite a long time: January 21st, 1942 up until 1976. The mayor at the time (Fiorello Henry LaGuardia, as in LaGuardia airport) made a big spectacle by smashing up a large number of pinball machines in front of a fairly supportive crowd! Anyway, the ban was put into place because the machines were seen more as a game of luck than of skill. (And games of luck == gambling, apparently!) However, in 1976, one Mr. Roger Sharpe went up to the NYC City Council when they were having hearings on the ban. He said something to the effect of: "I can pull back this plunger and make the ball go into the lane I want at the top of the machine." He proceeded to plunge, make the lane, and right away they voted to end the ban. Neat story, huh? If you didn't know, Roger Sharpe is the Major Marketing Dude at Williams now. -- Thanks to Scott Piehler for information. >>5.13 - Are replays still illegal in New York City? Well, replays were a major reason why pinball was banned in the first place, as far as I know. They are still illegal in NYC, apparently. However, it turns out most places blissfully ignore this law and let their games give out replays anyway. -- Thanks to Steve Baumgarten for information. >>5.14 - What are the most popular games ever? So far we are only certain of 3 games: TAF, Eight Ball Deluxe, and TZ. TAF, because it broke the record of the biggest run of games, and Eight Ball Deluxe because it held the number one spot before TAF took it. At Expo 93, it was mentioned that TZ came in the list 8th overall. There were a ton of F-14s made, so presumably they are on the top ten list somewhere. This is a plea for help: Anyone who can provide the top ten list of games would be greatly appreciated (a lot of people have been wanting to know for quite awhile). Obviously the manufacturers know how many were made, so if any of them would 'fess up it would be great. And besides, you could have your name in the "Hallowed List of Contributors" for all posterity to see! ** Section 6 - Technically Speaking ** -------------------------------------- >>6.1 - Can the rules change on the same game? Yep, and they usually do quite a few times. One reason is because most of the rules and timers can be adjusted with the operator menus. (See the later questions on how games get easier or harder.) The other major reason is because the rules in general go through several revisions. In order to do this, though, they have to make new ROMs for the game. Generally speaking, the later the ROMs the better, because that means they have the rules refined a bit more and the bugs worked out for the most part. However, as games get more and more complex, the likeliness of bugs showing up gets higher and higher. IJ and JP are 2 good examples of games that still have a large number of bugs in them despite having gone through a large number of ROM changes. >>6.2 - So how do I see what the ROMs are on my machine? Usually the only way is to power-cycle the machine. On Williams/Bally games, the ROMs are labeled like this: P-?? means prototype (pre-production run) ROMs, where the ?? is a number of some sort. The higher the number, the later the ROMs. L-?? means production ROMs (again the higher the number the later they are), and H-?? is used for custom ROMs. You have to have some pretty good connections to get these kind. :) Data East games use actual ?.??-type numbers for their ROMs, as well as the date of release. Gottlieb games don't give any indication of ROMs whatsoever. It just tells you how many balls should be in the game and the ROM checksum. Not very helpful, really. I don't know what Alvin G. games do yet. >>6.3 - What kind of sensors are used in games? The main kinds are microswitches (the wires that ball rolls over), leaf switches (the kind that hang down for the ball to trip, like the ones on the ramps of TAF), optical sensors (lovingly called "optos," these are just a light sender and receiver and are tripped when the ball interrupts the light), VUKs and saucers (probably triggered by the weight of the ball), and lastly, star rollovers (like buttons on the playfield in a asterisk-type shape) which recently made a comeback in the Gottlieb game Gladiators. Most recently, we have seen the development of proximity sensors. They can hide under the playfield or ramps or something and detect a ball going over it (with the electrical conducting properties of pinballs I guess). They were used in TZ to distinguish between regular balls and the Powerball. Now they are being used as inlane sensors on ST:TNG. A variation of the proximity sensor was used by Atari way back when. They didn't work very well. Lastly, but surely not least, there is the spinner. The ball runs into the spinner causing it to rotate. The game registers each rotation and awards points depending on the number of spins. -- Thanks to Bill Ung for suggestions. >>6.4 - What happens when the switches break? Well, unless it is a Williams/Bally game, probably nothing. Gottlieb games can do some compensation (SF2, for example, will give you credit for hitting a ramp if you shoot the shot underneath the ramp because the game thinks that the ramp is stuck up; also, vice versa), but supposedly the general concept of compensating for bad switches is patented by Williams. That is why when your Control Room or Power Shed break on JP, nothing happens, and the game becomes utterly useless. >>6.5 - What are those wiry paths called? Well, we in rgp have taken to calling them "habitrails." I've heard them called different things as well, like "wireforms" (in an interview with Mark Ritchie in the Flipside). >>6.6 - How can the game get harder physically? On most games, things like rubber posts near the outlanes can be set in one of several different postitions. Obviously, the further apart the posts are in the outlane, the harder it'll be to save a ball. Also, there may not be any rubber on the outlanes at all, which can be downright rude. (See question 2.6.) Also, unethical things such as increasing the playfield angle can be done. And, of course, making the tilt more sensitive. Nice, clean, recently waxed playfields will tend to be really fast, adding another element of challenge altogether (called, "getting control of the 150 MPH ball"). >>6.7 - How can the game get harder otherwise? Most games nowadays allow you to adjust almost everything about the game you could possibly think of. For example: extra ball % (target value for number of games with an extra ball in it), replay % (discussed in question 3.10), number of tilt warnings given before the game actually tilts, number of extra balls you can get per game or per ball, number of extra balls in reserve at once, and practically every single timer or difficulty of each individual award possible in the game. There are also usually 5 settings that each game will come with to make it easier for the operator to select the general difficulty he wants for the game: extra-easy, easy, medium, hard, and extra-hard. With Data East games, sometimes changing the overall difficulty level will change things that you couldn't normally change from menus. Why? I don't know. Also, there is an "install 5 ball rules" option that will set the game to 5 balls per play and install harder rules, usually hard or extra-hard. This is to make up for the extra 2 balls you will get during the game. >>6.8 - How do flippers work? The flipper mechanisms differ from company to company - that's one of the reasons why games from different manufacturers tend to have different "feels" to them, and probably the biggest one. Williams/Bally - On an older machine (pre-Addams Family), when you press the flipper button, the current flows through only a portion of the flipper coil, generating a high magnetic field that forces the flipper up with a lot of power. When the flipper is all the way up, the end of stroke switch (EOSS) opens, and the current now much flow through the entire coil. This creates a lower magnetic field, which holds the flipper up without burning out the coil (the high current would do this very quickly). A newer Williams/Bally machine uses two coils, one for high power and the other for low power, and uses the EOSS to switch off the high-power coil. If the EOSS breaks, the flipper will operate on a timing setup similar to the Data East one (see below). Williams calls this setup "FlipTronic II". Data East - On a pre-Jurassic Park DE, there are two current inputs, one at 50 volts DC and the other at 8VDC, and no EOSS. When you press the flipper button, the higher current activates to fire the flipper, and then a timer will switch to the lower current to hold the flipper up. This setup is called a "Solid State Flipper." A newer DE appears to use a setup similar to the "old" Willaims/Bally flippers (any new info appreciated!). Gottlieb - Gottlieb's use a single coil with an EOSS. There are three inputs to the coil, with a diode across the outside two. The diode is there to help the magnetic field that the coil produces collapse more quickly when the coil is de-energized, thus saving wear and tear and decreasing the flipper reset time. Alvin G. - No one seems to know too much about their flippers yet... Any info would be most appreciated. -- Info originally appeared in Dave Hollinsworth's Playingtips guide. >>6.9 - Can I tell if anything is wrong with the game BEFORE I play it? Currently, the only company which signals game problems publically is Williams/Bally. If the game detects something wrong (such as a missing ball or a stuck/nonregistering switch), then the credits display will change to something like "Credits 0." The period after the number of credits is the indicator of some kind of malfunction. DE games use to have a couple of blinking lights on the front of their games but not any more. Gottlieb games are a total mystery, and I don't know anything about Alvin G. games. ** Section 7 - Specific Game FAQs ** ------------------------------------ NOTE: All of these questions are covered in their respective rules sheets (I think!). However, they still come up so often that we think they warrant a space in the DFAQ... >>7.1 - What is the 4-way combo in TAF? Shoot the Bear Kick ramp, then the "Advance X" shot to the upper right flipper, then the left ramp, then the 5x Graveyard (swamp) shot. Doing either the first 3 or last 3 of these gets you a 3-way combo. >>7.2 - Why is/isn't there a rubber band in my TZ? The rubber band in the jet bumpers was removed during the production run. Starting at the IFPA '93 tournament (== L3 ROMs), games no longer had the rubber band in there. Though it protected the ball from left drains very nicely, balls coming from the Powerfield would tend to bounce of the band into the center drain! The latter was deemed worse than the former, so out it came. Any game that shipped with L-3 roms and later does not have the rubber band in it. Some prototype machines may have newer ROMs in it, which would explain why your machine (with, say, L-4 ROMs) has the rubber band. For those of you that haven't seen the rubber band, it looks approximately like this: O O (The O's represent the jet bumpers.) \ O >>7.3 - What are the songs used in CFTBL? The game plays 3 out of a possible 5 every day. The 5 songs it has are: Get a Job (Silhouettes) Summertime Blues (Eddie Cochran) Rock Around the Clock (Bill Haley and the Comets) Hand Jive (Johnny Otis) Red River Rock (Johnny and the Hurricanes) -- Thanks to the readers of alt.rock-n-roll.oldies for a couple of groups. >>7.4 - What is the Vacation Jackpot in Whitewater? If you get all 4 parts of the Vacation Planner some time during the game (though the locks must be last), you get the 200M+change. That means that you must get a Class 6 River some time during the game, get to Wet Willies, and have done all of the Boulder Rounds at least once. After you've done these 3 things, when you lock your third ball for your next multiball, you'll get the Jackpot. It goes up 10K for each game played, BTW. >>7.5 - I just got the flipper bonus in TZ. How did I do it? If your end-of-ball bonus (NOT from the Camera award "collect bonus") gives you enough points to get a replay, then during the replay animation, hit both flipper buttons for the flipper bonus. >>7.6 - What is the proper way to go in STTNG's Shuttle Simulation? At each split in the path, you can go left or right (you HAVE to do one or the other). If you go L-L-R-R-L-L-R-L-L-L then you can get an easy 149M or 159M (depending on whether or not you were offered the extra ball after going right the 3rd time) and an artifact. >>7.7 - What is the Secret Mission in STTNG? When you shoot the Shuttle Ramp, you are told the Holodeck is ready after 3 ramps, then 9 ramps, then 18, 24, ... If nothing else important is being displayed (like Explosive Millions or Rescue animations, etc.) then the screen will tell you that "Holodeck X is ready" where X is a number 1, 2, 3, or 4. If the number is 3, then pull the gun trigger *3* times, and you'll start the Secret Mission. It's basically a frenzy where each target is worth 1M+(some weird number)+. The spinner doesn't count for multiple hits. >>7.8 - Why in God's name are there 3 High Score tables in STTNG? Which table you get on is based on your score and how many buy-ins you used. If you used 0 or 1 buy-ins, then your score is eligible for the Honor Roll or Grand Champion positions. If you used 2 or more buy-ins, then your score will go in the Officer's Club (thus, the reason it comes after the Honor Roll). HOWEVER: If your score is over 10B and is NOT the Grand Champion score, then it goes into the Q Continuum. An unfortunate side effect is that if your score is over 10B, but not higher than the LOWEST score on the Q Continuum, then you do NOT get a high score (and thus no credit reward). Bleah. If you get a Grand Champion score that pushed off a score that was also above 10B, it'll still get pushed into the first place of the Honor Roll, but only the last 10 digits will be displayed (i.e. no 10B digit). It looks mighty weird having a score of 2.9B over a score of 9.9B... >>7.9 - Are there really secret flipper combinations in games? Yep. We currently only know of ones in Williams/Bally games. The following steps describe what you can try to do. Most of them work only in attract mode with no credits since you have to use the start button (therefore, free play is also out of the question). Also, it is best to do them right after a game, slam tilt, or power-cycle. L = left flipper, R = right flipper, S = start button, B = both flippers. A number in front indicates hit the button that many times. TAF - 7L S 14R S 20L S = cows 13L S 1R S 2L S = credits TAFG - same as above, PLUS 12L S 5R S 4L S = new cows Whitewater - 3L S 15R S 23L S = cows STTNG - B 8L R 5L R 5L R 6L 2R = Steve Ritchie games (works during normal play as well) Dr*c*l* - When he crosses his eyes, hit the start button. ** Section 8 - Video Pinball ** ------------------------------- >>8.1 - Video pinball??? Pinball is in fact becoming more and more popular these days with video games becoming more tests of how much money you have rather than how much skill you have (especially games like NBA Jam). It only follows, then, that more and more home pinball games come out. >>8.2 - How accepted is video pinball? There are some 100% pinball purists out there that absolutely refuse to accept any implementation of video pinball, and it's not too hard to understand their positions. I think the vast majority of people accept it as long as the implementation is good (I know I do). >>8.3 - So what's available? Here is a brief product list of what I know is available. If you have more information about any of these products or wish to counter any opinions, feel free to write me. Ratings are MHO out of 10. *** ROUGH ASCII TABLE ALERT! *** Game |Overall|Physics|Rules|Programming|Graphics|Sound|Notes | | | | | | | Amiga | | | | | | | ----- | | | | | | | Pinball Dreams | 7 | 7 | 6.5 | 8.5 | 7 | 6 | 1 Pinball Fantasies | 7.5 | 8 | 7.5 | 6.5 | 7.5 | 7.5 | 1 | | | | | | | IBM | | | | | | | --- | | | | | | | Tristan | 3.5 | 3 | 3 | 8 | 4 | 3 | Eight Ball Deluxe | 4.5 | 5.5 | 4 | 6 | 4.5 | 4 | 2 Take a Break Pinball| 0 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0 | 2 | 1 | Epic Pinball | 5.5 | 5 | 5.5 | 4.5 | 7.5 | 7 | 1,4 Pinball Dreams | 4 | 3.5 | 6 | 3 | 5.5 | 6 | 1,5 Pinball Fantasies | 8 | 8 | 7.5 | 7.5 | 8.5 | 7.5 | 3 | | | | | | | Mac | | | | | | | --- | | | | | | | Tristan | | | | | | | 0 Eight Ball Deluxe | 6 | 5.5 | 4 | 8 | 6 | 5 | Crystal Caliburn | | | | | | | 0 Notes ----- 0 - Haven't played it personally and no one else has rated it compared to these other games mentioned. 1 - Screen scrolls to reveal other parts of playfield. 2 - Screen scrolls, but may be set to higher resolution to avoid scrolling. 3 - Screen scrolls, but may be set to higher resolution to lessen scrolling. 4 - All 3 shareware packs taken into consideration. (Very) brief descriptions: Pinball Dreams (Amiga) - Really the first game to start the current crop of video pinball games. This game has 4 different tables (all variations of recognizable games). A good start. Pinball Fantasies (Amiga) - This game is VERY buggy. It was a Christmas '92 rush job, and it shows. 3 tables feature 3 flippers. Other than the bugs, a very nice game indeed. Tristan (IBM) - Technically it's a pinball game. You can see the whole table at once, which is a good thing. However, the ball is approximately 3/4 the size of the flippers, making aiming impossible. The jackpot shot is pure luck, anyway. There IS multiball. "Nudging" mostly useless. Eight Ball Deluxe (IBM) - A decent remake of the original. The screen is WAY small (unless you get the SuperVGA upgrade). The game more or less faithfully reguritates the original sounds (even the "in-game music"), but some of the rules have thrashed (like the 8-ball saucer ALWAYS resets the drop targets?!?). OK ball movement, nothing spectacular. Tilt is random. Take A Break Pinball (Windows) - Tables are confusing, and ball seems to be optimized such that it'll go from point A to point B, but all in-between animation is eliminated, no matter HOW fast your machine is. (And I have a 486-66 with a local-bus video card. Windows FLIES on my machine.) Just Say No. Ball movement lame. Epic Pinball (IBM) (shareware) - 12 original tables in all, including a couple of EM-type games (neat) and a futuristic table (surprisingly kind of fun). Ball movement is OK, but there is a major bug that sends the ball *through* your flippers quite a bit. There is multiball, but a little peeve of mine is that if something doesn't score decent points, then it's worth nothing at all (like slingshots). Rules obscure or buggy in a couple of places. The new 4 tables just released are minor improvements rule-wise, but ball seems to go through flippers even MORE often now. :| Pinball Dreams (IBM) - Conversion-wise this game is a MAJOR disappointment. Ball movement is bad (gravity seems pretty heavy for some reason), and all of the tables seem to have been changed in major ways from the original. The guys who wrote the Amiga version don't like this game either. If you've never played the Amiga one, then you might like it, but probably not. Pinball Fantasies (IBM) - This game is *better* than the Amiga version. Quite a bit better, actually. There are some fairly major bugs in the game, not crash-wise, but rules-wise. At least the ball doesn't go through the flippers... Tristan (Mac) - Never played it. Eight Ball Deluxe (Mac) - A little better than the PC version. Same rules problems, though. Sound and graphics very good (whole thing fits on the screen). Ball movement a little weird. Crystal Caliburn (Mac) - Haven't played it (yet). ** Section 9 - Pinball and Your Health ** ----------------------------------------- >>9.1 - Can I really get injured just by playing pinball? It's possible. If you play for long periods of time often, then you can develop RSIs (repetitive strain injuries) and even CTS (Carpal Tunnel Syndrome). It is not unlike conditions developed by typists and chicken cutters. (If you don't know what I'm talking about, don't worry...) -- Thanks to Michael Field for suggesting this section. >>9.2 - How can I avoid pinball-related injuries? Well, the obvious answer is to cut back on your playing for awhile. However, this is not always possible. :) You can take drugs (like Ibuprofen, the stuff in Advil) to reduce pain an inflamation, but this is certainly not something that should be done constantly for obvious medical reasons. If it is only your wrists (i.e. tendonitis), then you could probably get away with using wristbands. However, you should also be aware of the possibility of CTS, which if left untreated, can be extremely serious. So far, a number of people (including myself and Dave Stewart) have had great success with padded gloves, such as the kind used by bikers and weightlifters. -- Thanks to Michael Field and Dave Stewart for information. >>9.3 - So how do I know if I'm getting CTS? From a simple test you can do by yourself (or with a friend's help). With the suspect hand, hold your thumb and pinky together as tightly as you can. With your other hand (or have your friend do it), use the index finger to try and break the hold of your thumb and pinky. When your hands are healthy, it will be extremely difficult to break the hold. One of the first signs of CTS, though, is that this hold is extremely weak (so much so that a small child could probably break the hold as well). This doesn't mean that you have CTS. What it does mean is that if you continue the activity causing the pain (and sometimes numbness) in your hand, you are at high risk of getting CTS, and should immediately take steps to avoid it. As noted above, using padded gloves while you play seems to do the trick. People may laugh or make comments to you, but hey - they're your hands, and you'd probably like to keep the use of them, right? -- Thanks to Dave Stewart for information. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** Related Documents ** ----------------------- The following documents are referred to in the DFAQ. This is simply a summary of them for your convenience. The authors/maintainers of these documents appear in the question their reference comes from. Q # File Description ----- -------------------- ------------------------------------------------ Intro Misc/abbreviations "All" the abbreviations used in rgp 3.1: Info/playingtips General pinball playing tips 3.4: Misc/deathsave.ps.Z Rough diagram for death saves and bang backs Misc/deathsave.gif GIF of the above file 3.5: Info/bangbacks How to save outlane drains 4.7: Misc/league* Information for forming pinball leagues 5.9: Lists/pinball List of every recent game made ** The Hallowed List of Contributors ** --------------------------------------- Keith Johnson Kevin Martin Steve Baumgarten David Byers Terry Cumming Brent Earl Michael Field Dave Hollinsworth Scott Piehler Lyman Sheats, Jr. Dave Stewart Bill Ung Minor corrections/additions: Todd McCarty , Johannes Gronvall , Chris Hehman , David Smith . -- |Keith Johnson |> SUPPORT <|"It's log! It's log! | |keefer@rahul.net |>SHAREWARE<| It's big, it's heavy, it's wood. | |kjohnson@csugrad.cs.vt.edu| Help keep | It's log! It's log! | |Use either. Top preferred.|prices down| It's better than bad, it's good!" | Article 30689 of rec.games.pinball: Path: charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!yeshua.marcam.com!hookup!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!sao From: sao@athena.mit.edu (Andy Oakland) Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball,news.answers,rec.answers Subject: monthly rec.games.pinball FAQ, one of two Supersedes: Followup-To: rec.games.pinball Date: 3 Oct 1994 14:15:43 GMT Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Lines: 220 Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.Edu Distribution: world Expires: 10 Nov 1994 14:15:58 GMT Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: cascade.mit.edu Originator: sao@cascade.MIT.EDU Xref: charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu rec.games.pinball:30689 news.answers:29656 rec.answers:7671 Archive-name: games/pinball/part1 Changes from last time: New periodical listed, "Coin-Op Classics," thanks to David Marston, marston@coos.dartmouth.EDU Changes in subscription information for pinGame journal and Game Room magazine This is the first half of the monthly posting for rec.games.pinball. If you have any comments, additions, or suggestions for this posting, please contact the editor, Andy Oakland, at sao@athena.mit.edu. There's an ftp archive for the newsgroup at ftp.rahul.net (192.160.13.1) in /pub/sigma/pinball. This is maintained by Kevin Martin, and contains rule sheets and a wealth of other information. There's also a WWW (World-Wide Web) site, the "Pinball Pasture," maintained by David Byers. It's located at "http://www.lysator.liu.se:7500/pinball/". ---------------------------------------------------------- Frequently Asked Question number one: "How do I buy a machine?" Buying a pinball for home use has a lot in common with buying a car: It is a big investment, the item requires proper care, and the business is filled both with honest, decent people and sleazeballs. ========================================================================= =============== Decide what sort of machine you want ================== ========================================================================= Games available for home purchase fall into three categories: Used electro- mechanical, used solid-state, and new (all new games are solid-state). Which is right for you depends on what you want, how much you're willing to spend, and whether you ever intend to sell or trade the game. Think a bit about why you want a game. If you want it to play, chances are that you want a solid-state game. They play faster, and the software has features that could take you some time to uncover. If you're looking for something to tear apart, down to the bare wood, and build back up again (only better), buy an electro-mechanical. Doing the fix-up on a solid-state game wouldn't be as fruitful--At some point, you'd be staring at an IC-laden circuit board, and that's way beyond cleaning contacts and tightening springs. Aside from knowing why you want a game, you should zero in on which game you want. The market is fat with choices, and there is a fair chance that, if you look in the right places, you can eventually find what you want. But you can't go into the market saying, "Oh, just find me something you think I'll like." It goes deeper than issues of color and whitewalls or no: You will fare best if you have a wish list of games you are interested in. How much will it cost? It depends on the popularity and rarity of the game, the condition of this particular machine, and whether or not you live in California. (Not a joke ... Prices run higher in The Golden State!) A semi-functional older solid-state machine can be had for as little as $100, while a new game fresh from the factory runs about $3500. Typical price for a game that's seen a couple years of use would be $400-$1000. An electro-mechanical game can run anywhere from $150 to $750, with real collector's items (like Humpty Dumpty) significantly more. If this is your first machine, it's highly recommended that you get a working one! Picking up a cheap junker may be tempting, but you'll never get it going without experience, specialized equipment, and a stock of spare parts. Try to buy from someone who'll deliver it in working condition, and stand behind it for a while. Ask for references! ========================================================================= ======================= Go looking for one ========================= ========================================================================= The path a pinball machine travels typically looks like this: Manufacturer--->Distributor--->Operator--->Collector or junkyard Unless you have very deep pockets, you won't be buying your machine from the manufacturer or distributor. Operators are the ones who put machines out in the field and maintain them...They're usually willing to sell used machines once they stop pulling in the quarters. Go to your favorite machine in the field, and ask who owns it. If the location doesn't, there's probably a sticker on the machine pointing you to the operator. Another way to find operators is to hit the Yellow Pages, and call up the companies listed under "Amusement Devices." First ask them if they sell machines for home use, then ask for the specific machines you're looking for. You can also buy machines from collectors. In fact, this is pretty much the only way to go to find an Electro-mechanical. You probably aren't going to find an EM in the field, or with an operator. For both EM's and solid-state machines, the little ads in periodicals like Game Room are an excellent source of leads. (See list of periodicals below) Also, you can try to find something locally. Buy every newspaper you can, including the little "nickel ads" type, and check the classifieds. Keep doing this for months. Takes time, but good deals occasionally pop up. You can also find a "broker," a sort of super-collector in business to buy up old used games, fix them up, and resell them. Again, you can reach these people through publications like Game Room Magazine Also, believe it or not, check with a dart supply store! I know of two in my area (Boston) which sell used pins, and at least one Norwegian store does. ========================================================================= ======================= Publications ========================= ========================================================================= There are many periodicals good for getting background information on the pinball world, and for contacting other collectors. The first two, pinGame journal and Game Room Magazine, are probably the best ones for those interested in home games. Both of them are sporting slick new logos, which is probably a good sign of health! pinGame journal 31937 Olde Franklin Drive, Farmington Hills, MI 48334 Written by pinball collectors. Includes info about new games in development, as well as articles on finding, reconditioning, and playing older games. Subscription includes one free classified ad per month. Often includes cool plastics and flyers. $30/year for US, $34/year Canadian, $63/year European(air), $74/year Pacific Rim (air), $36/year Pacific Rim(surface). Sample issue $3.50. Game Room Magazine 1014 Mount Tabor Road New Albany, IN 47150 A monthly hobbyist publication, covering pinballs, slots, jukeboxes, Coke machines, neon, etc. High proportion of advertising. Lots of pinball articles, now that they've picked up the Pinball Trader subscribers. pinball article monthly. $24/year for US, $30/year Canadian, $48/year European(surface), $84/year European(air), $52/year Pacific Basin (surface), $92/year Pacific Basin(air). Sample issue $3. The Flipside 81 Carrar Drive, Watchung, NJ 07060 Bimonthly just getting started, written by fans and collectors, many of whom are r.g.p. regulars! Includes reviews of new games, articles about pinball and pinball players, and a national high score list. $18/year for USA, $28/year for Canada/foreign. Sample issue $3. Coin-Op Classics 17844 Toiyabe Street Fountain Valley, CA 92708 Bimonthly, editted by Dick Bueschel. I haven't seen an issue, so I can't make any comments here. Any suggestions? $48/year for US, $57/year for Canada. Play Meter PO Box 24970, New Orleans, LA 70184 Thick, slick trade journal, mostly aimed at arcade owners and operators. Provides uniformly glowing reviews of the latest games. Covers crane games, kiddie rides, etc., as well as video and pinball. $50/year, sample issue $5. RePlay P.O. Box 2550 Woodland Hills, CA 91365 Another monthly trade magazine with the same content as Play Meter. $60/year, sample issue $5. Coin Slot 4401 Zephyr St., Wheat Ridge, CO 80033-3299 A quarterly covering all collectible coin-op machines. $28/year. The publisher, Donald Hoflin, can be reached via E-mail at donh@hoflin.com. Distributors Research Associates 197 S.W. 20th Way, Dania, FL 33004 The DRA Price Guide lists "average" prices of games, jukeboxes, and vending machines that are actively traded on the distributor level. Note that this does not include games more than a few years old. $75/year for 4 skinny issues and 4 even skinnier updates. Canadian Coin Box NCC Publishing, 222 Argyle Ave., Delhi, Ontario N4B 2Y2 Canada. $38/year, sample issue $3.50. Coin-Op Newsletter P.O. Box 2426, Rockville, MD 20852 A bimonthly hobbiest publication. Covers antiques and coin-op collectables. $24/ten issues. ========================================================================= ======================= Manufacturers ========================= ========================================================================= Alvin G. & Company (Alvin Gottlieb, without the rights to his name!) 905 W. North Ave Melrose Park, IL 60160 tel: 708-345-9000 fax: 708-345-2222 toll free: 800-858-flip Sadly, Alvin G. & Company has gone out of business. I'm keeping the company listed, though, in case people want to send fan mail or obtain spare parts for existing machines. Data East Pinball Inc. 1990 Janice Avenue Melrose Park, IL 60160 tel: 708-345-7700 toll free: 800-kickers Premier Technology (Includes Gottlieb and Mylstar) 759 Industrial Drive Bensenville, IL 60106 tel: 708-350-0400 fax: 708-350-1097 toll free 800-444-0761 Williams Electronic Games Inc. (Includes Bally and Midway) 3401 North California Avenue Chicago, IL 60618 tel: 312-267-2240 fax: 312-267-8435 Article 30690 of rec.games.pinball: Path: charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!yeshua.marcam.com!hookup!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!sao From: sao@athena.mit.edu (Andy Oakland) Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball,news.answers,rec.answers Subject: monthly rec.games.pinball FAQ, two of two Supersedes: Followup-To: rec.games.pinball Date: 3 Oct 1994 14:15:48 GMT Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Lines: 351 Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.Edu Distribution: world Expires: 10 Nov 1994 14:15:58 GMT Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: cascade.mit.edu Originator: sao@cascade.MIT.EDU Xref: charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu rec.games.pinball:30690 news.answers:29657 rec.answers:7672 Archive-name: games/pinball/part2 This is the second half of the monthly posting for rec.games.pinball. If you have any comments, additions, or suggestions for this posting, please contact the editor, Andy Oakland (sao@athena.mit.edu). ---------------------------------------------------------- Frequently Asked Question number two: I've got this pinball machine. Now what do I do with it? (Besides play it, of course!) Steven Craig (Steven.Craig@cdc.com) maintains an up-to-date list of pinball machines and their owners (the PAPS list), so that other net'ers can find people who have a specific game. He posts it to rec.games.pinball monthly, or you can email him for a personal copy. If you have recently bought a machine, he'd be happy to add you to the list! ========================================================================= ======================= Playfields ========================= ========================================================================= Playfields come in three flavors: Mylared, non-Mylared, and Williams' "DiamondPlated" fields. Mylar is a sheet of clear plastic laid over the playfield to protect it. Mylar can get grubby, and slows down play... Some pinball purists remove the Mylar and keep their fields well waxed. For Mylared playfields, you can use "Endust" or something similar. If your game is already in good condition, it does just what you want, and without that annoying waxy buildup! Williams field service suggests cleaning DiamondPlate playfields with Novus Plastic Polishes #'s 1 and 2. #1 to clean and repel dust, #2 to remove fine scratches. Or you can simply wipe the field clean with a rag and some glass cleaner. KIT carnauba wax is also reputed to be good. Call Novus at (800) 548-6872 for a distributor in your area. Brady Distributors (see bottom of FAQ) and some plastics supply houses carry Novus. By the way, Williams does not recommend "Wildcat" wax on DiamondPlate playfields, as it can seep under any mylar pieces and dissolve their adhesive. It can also cloud clear ramps, with repeated use. Maintaining your non-Mylar playfield is more complicated. There are special waxes made for this, such as "Mills" and "Wildcat," which are available at distributors or via mail-order. (See list of suppliers below) Wax protects the playfield's paint, and provides a smooth, fast, surface for the ball to roll on. A dirty playfield should be "dry wiped" with a soft rag before the first cleaner/wax application -- that much less dirt to get trapped in the wax. Do NOT clean playfields with water! Lemon Pledge is reputed to be an excellent general-purpose cleaner; you can also clean up the playfield plastics with it, and use it to freshen up a game that's alread got a good coat of wax. If you want get ambitious and remove your Mylar, Brian Millham (bdm@dr.att.com) offers the following advice: "It turned out to be a BIG, MESSY job, but it was worth it! The best method that I found was HEAT. I simply took a hair dryer and heated up a portion of the Mylar, starting from an easy to get to edge, and peeled it up. Once you get it started, the job is fairly easy, but slow. Let the heat do its work. Don't overheat the playfield, but also don't pull the Mylar up too fast. You don't want to pull up any paint with it! "Once you have removed the old Mylar, you are probably only half done with the job. You now will need to remove the glue that was left behind. This is the fun part :-) I ended up using Milwax and lots of elbow grease. Once you start cleaning off the glue, you will find that it looks like you are making a bigger mess than you had. Don't worry, it will start coming clean. Oh, did I mention to have LOTS of cloths to do this part? "It played like a whole different machine! And it looked better too. The Mylar leaves a dull finish. A waxed playfield looks nice and bright. Also, there are solvents available to dissolve the glue...I've seen these work with magnificent results. Michael Knudsen (knudsen@ihlpl.att.com) reports: "I just heard from a serious pin restorer that that Blue Stuff (called CP-100 by Gemini Inc in Michigan) really dissolves that gunky glue that holds down Mylar sheets. Not only cleans it up in short order, but will even soak under the edge of a Mylar sheet (like around a bumper or ramp) and loosen it right off the playfield! So now The Blue Stuff has its special niche in pin work. If you want to do playfield touchup, you can use Testor's paint. You'll find this in the plastic model section of your local toy store. There are some new Testor's paint pens on the market, too, which work well. Lettering can be either retouched by hand, if there's enough to salvage, or completely redone with rub-on letters. Art supply stores have the latter. Before retouching the playfield, be certain to clean well and remove all the old wax! Brian Casper has used grain alcohol with good results. You can build up height in worn or chipped spots by using multiple coats of paint. Be sure to allow plenty of time for each coat to dry, and finish up with coats of polyurethane spray. Deeper gouges and holes in your playfield can be patched with "Bondo," a product typically used for repairing car bodies. Bondo should be applied to the bare wood; beware of getting it on playfield plastics, as its solvents may attack them. It is very hard after it cures, so you should do as much shaping of the area as possible while it is still malleable. Once it dries, you need to use a power sander to smooth it out. To fill in stripped screw holes and the like, you can use "Plastic Wood" to provide a new surface for the screws to grip. ========================================================================= ======================= Flippers ========================= ========================================================================= If your flippers seem feeble, have a look at the contacts on the buttons and the coils themselves. The flipper coils are actually two coils in one. One is the relatively high-current one to initially fire a flipper, and the other is the lower- current one for holding a flipper up. The high-current coil is supposed to cut out at the end of a stroke, leaving the lower-current coil to hold the flipper up. If the high-current coil isn't firing, the flipper will move very feebly. Conversely, if the high-power coil is constantly energized, you're likely to fry the coil or blow a fuse. How this is done depends on the age of the machine. On older machines, (Pre-Dr. Dude, 1990) it's done in hardware with a normally closed end-of- stroke ("EOS") switch which opens at the top of the stroke and cuts out the power to the high-power coil. If the contacts on this switch are bad, the high-power coil won't ever fire, and the flipper will be feeble. Cleaning and adjusting these contacts, as well as the contacts in the flipper buttons, will fix many flipper problems. See the directions for contact cleaning under "General Cleaning Tips" below. Most modern machines use "solid state" flippers, which use software to control the strength of the flip. The most important difference is the fact that the end of stroke switches are normally open, and close when the flipper reaches the end of stroke. When the player presses a flipper button, the flipper controller board energizes both the high-power (50-volt) and low-power (25 volt) coils. When the flipper closes the EOS switch, the controller board shuts off the 50 volts, leaving the 25-volt coil to keep the flipper up. The practical upshot of all this is that the switches, being low current, do not need as much care. Also, the flipper buttons may be replaced by optical switches, again reducing the necessary maintance. A sluggish flip may also be caused by a dirty flipper sleeve. Remove the sleeve and clean it and the plunger. A melted sleeve should warn you to check the EOS switch and make sure the high-current coil is cutting out on cue. You may also have a worn coil stop or plunger, causing the flipper to pull in too far. If you need new contacts, sleeves, or whole coils, you can order replacements from the sources listed below. Flippers in many electromechanical (EM) machines are driven by AC, so there tends to be some buzzing associated with them. This is normal. ========================================================================= ======================= Drop Targets ========================= ========================================================================= To clean drop targets, hold the target up by hand, or remove it entirely, and use a moist soapy rag or Q-tip. Anything nastier than soap may harm the paint or plastic. Again, test on an inconspicuous place first. If your drop targets aren't resetting properly, check to see if the lip the target sits on is rounded off. If so, file the plastic lip (on the target) flat again or replace the target. Also, check that the reset solenoid is pulling in all the way so that the targets are coming up to the correct height. If the targets don't register when they drop, try cleaning the contacts as described below. ========================================================================= ======================= General Cleaning Tips ========================= ========================================================================= If this is a machine you've just bought, by all means vacuum out all the insides, carefully. Don't suck up any stray screws, small springs, or other objects...They might be useful! Watch out for the various service instruction sheets stapled around the insides. If you find any mouse droppings, check carefully for wires and cables gnawed thru so neatly that you can't see the gaps! Radio Shack Color TV Tuner Cleaner is a good all-around cleaner and lubricant, even for non-electrical items like solenoid plungers and shooter plunger shafts. Don't get it all over the playfield though, as it's conductive and can confuse a solid-state machine. Intermittently flickering bulbs may be helped by bending the socket slightly out of round with needlenose pliers (with the bulb out!) to make the grounded shell fit tighter. Use TV tuner cleaner to slip the bulbs in and out easier. You can use a business card to clean switch contacts. If necessary, use Freon, rubbing alcohol or some such solvent on the card to soften the crud, and use a dry card again afterwards. High-current contacts, such as the ones on flipper buttons, may require harsher measures. Look for a "contact burnisher" at your electronics shop or hardware store. Never use these on the gold-plated low-current contacts, though, as they'll destroy the plating and lead to corrosion. If some switches aren't firing, or are firing sporadically, check the spacing between the contacts ("Dwell and Gap"). Bally recommends 1/16th of an inch. You can adjust the spacing by bending the stiff blade that's between the two conductive ones. ========================================================================= ======================= References ========================= ========================================================================= The following books are recommended for pinball fanatics. Prices listed are in US dollars unless otherwise noted. "Pinball--The Lure of the Silver Ball," Gary Flower and Bill Kurtz, Chartwell Books. General overview of pinball history, from EM's to solid states. Color hardcover, great pictures. ISBN 1-55521-322-7. (This book is available from Terry Cumming, listed below) "Pinball 1," Richard Bueschel. History of early games, guide to rating condition of games, descriptions and photos of many pre-1960 machines. Emphasis on EM or pre-electric machines. B/W softcover. ISBN 0-86667-047-5. "Pinball Art," Keith Temple, H.C. Blossom Publishers. History of pinball, focussing on backglass art. Absolutely gorgeous pictures. Includes a list of pinball artists and their machines, and a "notoriously inaccurate" (according to David Marston, marston@coos.dartmouth.EDU) list of pinball milestones. ISBN 1-872532-10-1. For guides to maintaining machines, you can try the following: Pinball Troubleshooting Guide, Russ Jensen. For upkeep of electro- mechanicals. Can be ordered directly from author; $19.95 to 1652 Euclid Av, Camarillo, CA, 93010. The following reprints of 1960s-vintage service guides are available from Paul Midtdal, 1-3755 Cambie St., Vancouver, BC, CANADA V5Z 2X4: [Williams] Introduction to Coin-Op Amusement Games, $12. An Introduction to Bally Flipper Games, $8. Gottlieb Instruction and Service Manual $10. AMR Publishing, though they specialize in jukeboxes, sell schematics and service manuals for an odd collection of older pinball machines. Box 3007, Arlington, WA, 98223. (206) 659-6434. "Pinball Machines: How they work & troubleshooting," Norbert Snicer ISBN 0-646-11126-4. Available from the author for $40 Australian. Norbert Snicer, PO Box 622, Randwick NSW 2031, AUSTRALIA. If you can't find these books in your local bookstore, try: Rick Botts, Jukebox Collector Magazine. (515) 265-8324. Mayfair Amusements, (718) 417-5050. AMR Publishing, (206) 659-6434. Terry Cumming has a stock of "Pinball - Lure of the Silver Ball," now out of print, for US$17.95 in the US, Cdn$19.95 in Canada, US$19.95 elsewhere. Prices include shipping. 28 Hawkridge Ave, Markham, Ontario, CANADA L3P 1V7. His email address is terry.cumming@canrem.com. Larry Bieza puts out an annual "Pinball Price Guide," listing price ranges and guidelines for estimating value for Gottlieb, Williams and Bally machines from Humpty Dumpty up to the early 1980's. $12.00 from 1446 Albany Ave, St Paul MN, 55108. ========================================================================= ============== Sources for parts, machines, etc. ================== ========================================================================= The following sources have been used and recommended by a variety of people on the net. (I've used several of them myself) For many more sources, read the ads in the periodicals recommended in part one of the FAQ. WICO is a reliable source of parts for all sorts of coin-op machines, but a little expensive. Tried marketting their own pinball machine a while back, but it flopped. Catalog costs $10. (800) 367-9426. Two-Bit Score Amusements provides circuit board repairs for Bally, Stern, Williams, and Data East pins after 1977. Can supply and install game and sound ROMs; sells reprinted shop manuals with schematics as well as specialized testing chips and text fixtures. Austin, Texas. (512) 447-8888 (voice), (512) 447-8895 (FAX), TWOBITTX@aol.com Eldorado Products sells copies of manuals for $29. Long Beach, California, (310) 630-3300. Betson's sells anything related to arcade games and vending machines. Ask for the parts department. (800) 524-2343. Donal Murphy runs EWI, an inexpensive source for coils and some plastic parts. He manufactures new bumper caps and drop targets using the original molds. Chicago, Illinois, (312) 235-3360. Steve Young has a good supply of miscellaneous EM parts (wiper/stepping units, motors, flippers, pop bumper skirts, springs, score reels, etc.) Lagrangeville, New York. Eves:(914) 223-5613 FAX:(914) 223-7365 Nick Cochis at Pintronics specializes in Bally and Stern solid state machines. He repairs and sells circuit boards (CPUs, driver boards, displays, sound boards, etc.) He also sells copies of manuals for Bally and Stern machines. Canton, MA. (617) 961-3012. Steve Engel at Mayfair Amusement Company carries staples like coils, rubbers and light bulbs. They also do board repairs, have parts and documentation for older machines, and carry a mammoth (6K+) selection of backglasses. Ridgewood, NY. (718) 417-5050. Pinball Connection in Orlando carries new and used parts, does board repairs by mail, and sells whole machines. Seems to specialize in Gottlieb, but also does Bally/Williams and DE. (407) 249-1022. *************** Note ***************************************************** Pinball Connection has recently (1/94) moved, and this phone number no longer works for them. This will be updated as soon as I can find their new number. *************** Note ***************************************************** Dan Gulley has apparently spun off from Two-Bit (see above) and specializes in Gottlieb parts and repair. (512) 288-4307. Colorado Game Exchange sells whole machines (both pinball and video, we'll forgive them for the latter), though their quality can vary. (800) 999-3555. Brady Distributing Company in Charlotte, N.C., sells Novus Plastic Polish (and other supplies, I assume!) (704) 357-1243. ----------------------------------- For readers in the UK: An authorised Williams distributor is: DEITH LEISURE LTD. Unit 2, Industrial Estate, Leigh Close New Malden, Surrey, KT3 3NL, England TEL: 011-44-81-3361222 FAX: 011-44-81-3361487 'Amusement Emporium' in Bristol can provide spare pinball parts, and has quick service. (0272-441147). [There's an unconfirmed report that they've gone out of business, though] 'Pinball Paradise' is especially good for getting parts for old games, etc. (0428-658734). The Pinball Owner's Association (PO BOX 2, Haslemere, Surrey, GU27 2EQ, Great Britain) publishes a magazine which carries ads for machines and has maintenance tips.